Patroon, Formally Christ Cella

212-883-7373

160 East 46th Street (off 3rd Avenue)
Manhattan, New York

Rating: B+

Patroon, the name is Dutch for landowner, offer multiple lounges, a New York menu and a retro-luxe look-feel. Owned by Ken Aretsky's formally of the "21' Club and currently Butterfield 81, and opened in Nov. 1996. There are private dining nooks, Spanish-cedar humidors renting for $1,500 a year for cigar afficinados and traupe, velvet banquettes, damask curtains and wall coverings. in a rather formal and structured main dining room. Food prices ae high with two small slices of foie gras terrine with cranberry briolche going for $24 and a big and inweildy wine list akward to negociate at the smallish tables. No on could fault the more European-inspired dishes, such as a light and elegant lobster and cod cake withbraised salsifry and mustard sprouts and a beautiful spitfired roasted chicken with black truffles and truffled mashed potatoes. There's also the obligatort wood-grilled porterhouse for two and some good sides, priced high at $9, but a potato-gorgonzola gratin was terrfific and gratis cookies were good as well. From the dessert menu, I also liked spitfired roasted pear with mascarpone bread pudding and Port wine sauce at Patroon.

© Copyright 1998 J. Walman  - Punch In International Syndicate

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